Enthralled by the celestial vault, Van Cleef and Arpels has dreamed of capturing the poetry of stars. Since the 1950s, creations inspired by the signs of the Zodiac have reflected the symbolism of constellations. Today, the Maison continues this tradition with new interpretations of its medals, in white gold and on bracelets. Expanding the wearing possibilities, these pieces are imbued with the story of their wearer.
In 2021, Van Cleef and Arpels presented twelve creations echoing the first yellow gold medals that appeared in its collections in the 1950s. This heritage inspired a new ensemble with a personal touch. Twelve bracelets recall the charm jewelry the Maison has crafted throughout its history. The medals are revisited in sizes adapted to the wrist, 16 mm in diameter, and suspended from the chain thanks to a jump ring. They swing freely with movement and are positioned close to the clasp to reduce its visibility.
The two sides of each medal illustrate the Western Zodiac signs on one side and their symbols and dates in Roman numerals on the other. Relief and texture interact subtly. Virgo is portrayed as a young woman with a unicorn. Aries features a ram with textured fleece and a dynamic posture. Leo is shown in a majestic pose inspired by ancient iconography.
Each piece is crafted using the traditional stamping technique
Depending on the sign, up to eight strikes are required to achieve precision. After shaping, the gold is reworked to create a delicate patina. Raised motifs stand out against the surface and are enhanced with a brilliant polish that gives the metal an intense shine.
Craft process examples include trimming excess gold around the Libra medallion, filing the edge of the Capricorn medallion, pre polishing the Capricorn medallion, and assembling the chain and medallion of the Libra bracelet.
The Maison also offers white gold versions of the medals, designed to slide onto either a short 50 cm chain or a long 70 cm chain. These creations offer flexible wearing options suited to different styles and occasions.
The Zodiac theme appeared in Van Cleef and Arpels collections during the 1950s. Zodiac signs adorned gold medals that quickly became successful, following the tradition of good luck pieces created since the Maison’s founding in 1906. As part of the “la boutique” line of accessible everyday jewelry, the medals were offered in different sizes. They appeared as charms, cufflinks, and mix and match elements.
Archival references include a la boutique catalog from 1975, a Scorpio charm drawing from around 1970, and a Libra product sign from 1955.
In the 1970s, Zodiac creations became more voluminous and incorporated wood, diamonds, and ornamental stones. Designs expanded into pendants, bracelets, necklaces, clips, belts, and key rings. These interpretations suited both women and men and remained popular until the 1990s.
From 2014 onward, Van Cleef and Arpels explored the Zodiac theme in watchmaking through Poetic Astronomy. In 2018, the Zodiaque Lumineux timepieces featured illuminated constellations and symbols powered by an innovative mechanical system. In 2021, the Maison combined this inspiration with rare materials to create twelve long necklaces pairing textured rose gold with diverse ornamental stones, each with a distinct character.
Notable historical pieces include Taurus cufflinks from 1978, a Leo pendant from 1970, and a Destiny bracelet from 1978, all in yellow gold.